Oliva Rama Holidays

Castilla la Mancha & Extremadura

30th April - 7th May 2005

30th April :- I picked up Keith & Val at Javea and headed south for Santa Pola where we met the rest, Malcolm & Juani, Steve & Irene, and Anthea. We decided to give the Santa Pola Salinas a quick try before heading inland, which was a very good decision with a Great White Egret, 3 Marbled Duck, Water Rail, Wood & Curlew Sandpipers, Slender-billed & Yellow-Legged Gulls, Little, Common, & Whiskered Terns, and 100's of Greater Flamingos being the highlights. The drive inland to the Albacete Plains was uneventful but as soon as we left the motorway a stopped produced Thekla, Calandra & Short-toed Larks. Further stops produced Rock Sparrows, Northern Wheatears, Southern Grey Shrikes, Stone Curlews, and our first major targets 15 Great Bustards not too far from the track. At Petrola Lagoon we lunched adding Black Tern, Marsh Harrier, Ruff, Common Redshank, Little Stints, Shelduck, Gadwall, Crested Larks & a Green Woodpecker. Again we set off west over the rolling plains, one map stop was inspired with our first Black Kite, then Steve picked up two birds heading towards us. The initial thought for them was an accipiter and gull species but as they neared it was obvious they weren't, and turned out to be a cracking adult Honey Buzzard & Osprey actively flying overhead. We finally reached our destination late afternoon another wetland in the heart of Castilla la Mancha called Manjavacas Lagoon. Here we had Marsh & Montagu's Harriers, Kestrel, Whiskered, Black & Gull-billed Terns, more Flamingos, Bee-eaters, and a calling Quail. Finally we headed for Campo de Criptana, a lovely town on the main Don Quixote route, that night was a festival with a Spanish style 'battle of the bands'  using guitars, mandolins and a choir, brilliant.

1st May :- This morning our first stop was just outside Criptana looking at the famous Windmills featured in Cervantes novel Don Quixote, which made a great photo opportunity. Eventually we left this area heading for Extremadura but en-route we knew of a couple of potentially good wetlands that Malcolm & I wanted to try. We arrived at the first 'Camina de Villafranca' a small yet deep freshwater lagoon with plenty of wildfowl and breeding Black-headed Gulls. As we watched the many White Storks, Red Crested & Common Pochards, Black-necked Grebes and Shelduck a party of 9 Glossy Ibis flew in another good bird for the list. Eurasian Reed sang and Savi's Warbler reeled from the edges and a lovely male Marsh Harrier drifted by, disturbing the Black & Whiskered Terns. We dragged ourselves away and continued westward for a short while to Laguna de Tirez, which was unfortunately dry. However the habitat looked good so we decided to have a stroll anyway, and found a small colony of Bee-eaters, Calandra, Short-toed, & Skylark, Hoopoe and a calling Curlew that we couldn't locate. A Spiny-footed Lizard basking in the sun also created a nice distraction. A couple of hours after leaving here we were crossing the border of Extremadura but birds seen en-route were Griffon Vultures (Keith & Val's first ever vulture species and their faces were a picture), Black Kites, and Common Buzzards. Just over the border we stopped on a disused bridge and scanned the surrounding Dehesa. This was incredible with raptors everywhere including our first Black Vulture, Red Kites and Booted Eagles, along with Ravens, Azure-winged Magpies, Woodlarks, & Red rumped Swallows. Although again not wanting to leave we wanted to get to Monfrague N.P. in good time before going to our hotel in Torrejon del Rubio. We arrived late afternoon and drove through the Cork Oak dehesa finding more Azure-winged Magpies along the way. This then end and we wound our way to Portilla del Tietar with it's many attendant Griffon Vultures, Alpine & Common Swifts and Blue Rock Thrush. However the major highlight was the appearance of an adult Spanish Imperial Eagle that proceeded to play with the vultures by dropping on their backs and sometimes going talon to talon, a fantastic display. Remarkably it was then joined by a second bird (prob. 2nd or 3rd CY) showing how different these young birds are to the adults. Our final stop was at Pena Falcon where there were even more Griffon & Black Vultures, and also our first Egyptian Vultures, all giving eyeball to eyeball views. Other species seen included Black Wheatear, Black Redstart, Crag Martins, Booted Eagles and of course Black Kites. We arrived at our hotel very tired but thoroughly elated with what we had already seen in the past two days.

2nd May :- Today was going to be spent in and around Monfrague N.P. in a very relaxed manner so after breakfast we made our way back into the park. The first stop was Pena Falcon (en-route we added Black-eared Wheatear) were we spent an hour enjoying the spectacle of the birds seen the previous evening and also two pairs of Black Storks (on nests), a Short-toed Eagle, more Ravens, and a Black Kite catching a fish just below us. Next we decided on a gentle stroll along the side of the river, which produced  calling Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Nightingales, Wren, Blackcaps, Short-toed Treecreepers, Alpine Swifts, Jay and Common Sandpipers. Lunch was taken overlooking a Black Vulture nest that had both of the adults giving excellent views in the area, and also Red Kite, Booted Eagles, and Woodchat Shrike. After lunch continued to Tietar where again we were treated to good views of an adult Spanish Imperial Eagle, but unfortunately the Eagle Owl's were not visible, much to our disappointment. We then left the park and drove around some of it's perimeter, which is mostly Cork Oak dehesa and produced lots of Red Kites, Booted Eagles, Crested & Woodlarks, Corn Buntings, Woodchat Shrikes, White Storks, Azure-winged Magpies, Linnets, and Common Cuckoo. With the available time left we headed back to Pena Falcon and added two more Short-toed Eagles, and a very showy male Rock Bunting, Another night at Torrejon del Rubio was a welcome change for everyone.

3rd May :- We loaded the vehicle and set off on the minor road to Trujillo with a couple of stops the first of which was far out of Torrejon del Rubio. We pulled on to a minor track and walked up the hill a short way scanning the far off pylons where Malcolm found what he was looking for. A Spanish Imperial Eagle's eyrie with an adult bird inside it that could be seen clearly through the scopes even though it was distant. We returned to the van and continued towards Trujillo, after a while we stopped again this time at a known Black-shouldered Kite watchpoint. Unfortunately the Kite was no where to be seen but this area did hold our first Spanish Sparrows as well as White Storks (on nests), Linnets, Raven & Southern Grey Shrikes. Further on the landscape started to change into open plain where Calandra, Crested, & Thekla Larks flew up from the roadside, and Woodchat Shrikes & Stonechats on the fence posts. Frequent stops produced Egyptian Vulture, Booted Eagle, Short-toed Eagle, lots of Montagu's Harrier's (inc. 5 together), Little Owl, Roller, Cattle Egrets & White Storks. At Trujillo we found our hotel and got chatting to some other British birders who informed us of a Bald Ibis they had seen recently close by (thanks guys). So a quick management decision meant we dropped the bags grabbed a quick drink and headed out for the Belen Plains. The directions were good and we soon found our way to the small White Stork colony where the bird had been seen. A quick scan and we found the Ibis sat in a tree partially obscured by branches and a Jackdaw, so we moved position and eventually got great views of this incredibly rare bird (20 years since my last ones in Eastern Turkey). After a while we set off back to Trujillo but stopped on the advice of another birder we had met and found 17 Great Bustards & 4 Little Bustards showing well in the fields below the road. A final Little Owl rounded off yet another very good day in this fantastic part of Spain.

4th May :- This morning we set off early to do the Santa Marta triangle which started well with a Kingfisher on the edge of a small pond. A little further a familiar raucous call heralded our first Great Spotted Cuckoos of the trip that eventually gave very good views sat on a wire fence. Our next stop was again due to a familiar call of Little Bustard so we stopped and found a male 'blowing raspberries' and spitting to a nearby female. Other birds in and around the field were a Stone Curlew, Booted Eagle, and a pair of Lesser Kestrels. We continued on our way and a call of "STOP" from Val produced a wonderful male Little Bustard right next to the road displaying. We were expecting it to move on after we stopped but it didn't, it just carried on giving everyone fantastic views of it's gorgeous plumage. We carried on to Santa Marta seeing plenty of Larks, Corn Buntings, Black & Red Kites, Montagu's Harriers & Lesser Kestrels. The road back from Santa Marta to Trujillo changed habitats slightly (more Dehesa) with Roller, Spanish Sparrows, Hoopoes, & Azure-winged Magpies being seen. After a coffee stop in Trujillo we headed out to the Belen Plains with a quick stop to look at close Short-toed Larks, Little Owl, Short-toed Eagle, & Common Buzzards. A stop for lunch was next and at a suitable site we had our picnic with 2 Great Spotted Cuckoos, Raven (stealing a Magpie chick), Red Kite, Lesser Kestrels, Bee-eaters, and Southern Grey Shrike for company. After lunch we set off on a short walk and a scan of the isolated trees I found what we had hoped for a beautiful Black-shouldered Kite. Whilst watching this I looked up as a sub-adult Golden Eagle passed overhead but carried on going, fortunately moments later it returned and again soared above us for at least 5 minutes. Suddenly this magnificent bird closed it's wings and dropped out of the sky at terrific speed on to some unsuspecting creature, an awesome sight.  We left this area of the plain and returned to where the Bald Ibis had been seen but there was no sign of it around the White Stork nest site. We headed back for Trujillo but stopped en-route to look at some soaring Common Buzzards and whilst doing this the Golden Eagle appeared and flew around for a while before moving on. Back at Trujillo we took time out for lunch and stroll around the square of this beautiful town with it's nesting Lesser Kestrels & White Storks. That evening we went back to Belen and as we approached the Ibis site Steve picked it up flying away from the trees. Luckily it only went a short distance and dropped into a field and fed amongst the sheep showing extremely well along with Stone Curlew & Little Bustard.

5th May :- We left Trujillo and headed for an area of Steppe around Zorita, where there are plenty of species associated with this type of area. A party of 7 Black-bellied Sandgrouse flashed passed the vehicle unfortunately giving poor views to most of the party, and also a couple of Little Bustards in the adjacent fields. However the star of the area was a tremendous party of 32 Great Bustards close to the track that flew when a cement lorry trundled by looking like a flight of B52 bombers. Beyond Zorita is an area of paddy fields and man-made watercourses and a run around this area produced Azure-winged Magpies, Tree Sparrows, and Gull-billed Terns flew over.  A drive along a water channel gave us a good look at a Viperine Snake swimming along at the edge of a river. A Golden Oriole flew in front of the vehicle but only myself and Keith, unfortunately saw it, Anthea had a Grey Wagtail, and found a Melodious Warbler that only our vehicle were lucky enough to see. Our next destination was Embalse de Garcia de Sola, hoping for Bonelli’s Eagle, and for an hour or so we enjoyed good views of Griffon & Egyptian Vultures, Booted Eagles, Raven, & Black Storks, plus Little Egrets on the reservoir below. Then above the hillside I saw  a familiar shape and immediately shouted “Bonelli’s!”  causing panic amongst the group. Luckily it soared into full view and was then joined by a second adult, which proceeded to give excellent nice close views. It was now time for lunch so we found a suitable place for a picnic so we drove a short distance to a little woodland where birds called all around us.  After we’d eaten, we had superb views of a male Golden Oriole sitting right out in the open overhead, followed by several Azure-winged Magpies that were raiding the leftovers of our picnic. It was a wonderful farewell to Extremadura as we crossed over into Castilla la Mancha before arriving in Alcoba late afternoon. We checked into the hotel and arranged an evening walk before dinner that was attended by most people, and we went for a stroll along a track just outside of town. During the next couple of hours we saw lots of Griffon & Black Vultures, with one Black Vulture low over our heads, also many Red-rumped & Barn Swallows, Black Kites, Woodchat Shrikes, Cuckoo and Turtle Doves.  Dinner was delicious and plentiful, by consensus opinion the best meal we’d had, we retired soon after aware of a very early start the next morning.

6th May :- An early rise saw us all having coffee (industrial strength) & cake!!! in the local bar and then collected at 7.20 in a huge specially-adapted jeep to be driven into Los Cabaneros National Park. Our driver & tour guide, was Juan Manuel, a pony-tailed Spaniard that really knew his stuff.  Almost as soon as we entered the park, he located two wild boar with seven piglets, and skilfully drew up exactly where he knew they would cross the track in front of us.  They trotted by in a line, Dad and Mum first, then the seven youngsters, tails erect – much to the delight of everyone in the vehicle!  The fields held herds of red deer, and several fox adding to our list of mammals for the tour.  The birds were also impressive with close views of Little Bustard, and plenty of White Storks, Mistle Thrush and Woodchat Shrike. Further on Juan stopped at a known glade and immediately found a Spanish Imperial Eagle perched on a crag; and as we were watching it a second adult flew over, to be joined by the first. For the next few minutes we got magnificent views of these birds, showing their distinctive pale leading edge to the wings. Another stop along a narrow track produced a  nesting Black Vulture in the distance, but also the valley was a raptor flyway with Black & Griffon Vultures, Common Buzzards, Honey Buzzard, Booted &Short-toed Eagles being seen. As we left Juan saw a shape on the hillside that turned out to be an adult and young Moufflon, or wild sheep, which is quite a rare sighting.  Perhaps most interesting of all was the quick visit we paid to one of the 'Cabanas' which give the place its name – a charcoal-burner’s hut, conical, of wood, no windows, which maintains the same temperature indoors all year round.  Incredible to think that whole families lived in these tiny, basic structures, as recently as the 1920s. The tour ended around lunchtime and we said our "Hasta Luegos" to Manuel and thanked him for his excellent company and knowledge of the area. After lunch we set off and headed for a wonderful wetland site, Tablas de Dalmiel, a sort of Spanish Stodmarsh. Here we were to spend most of the afternoon, getting excellent birds including Squacco Heron, Great Reed Warbler, Black-winged Stilt, Red-crested Pochard, Marbled Duck, Glossy Ibis and Wood Sandpiper around the lagoons.  We followed a boardwalk to a high viewing platform, and here added Purple Heron, Spotted Flycatcher, Tree Sparrow and Collared Pratincole to our growing species list. Late afternoon we arrived at the Hotel Colgada just outside Ruidera, set in a stunningly lovely lakeside & woodland setting, In the early evening, a few of us set off along the road for a walk, finding singing Melodious Warbler, Blackcap and Nightingale, while Red-rumped Swallows were nesting in an underpass under the roadway.  As we walked back to the hotel, we had 13 Honey Buzzards wheeling overhead before moving north– a wonderful sight in any situation. Dinner was delicious, and afterwards I took a short walk in the night sky, a Scop's Owl called but unfortunately too far off to try and whistle in.

7th May :-  A pre breakfast stroll along the road produced much the same species for the previous evening although a Cirl Bunting provided a nice addition. As we returned we were surprised to see several Azure Winged Magpies around the hotel, a species not thought to be this far east,  are they spreading?.  We left Ruidera and our first stop was at Petrola, where we visited a market, selling wonderful plants, fresh fruit and vegetables, and (after trying to go into someone’s house!) we eventually found a bar for the last 'café con leches' and 'americanos' of the trip.  Petrola Lagoon was a bit disappointing and the hide was massively hot so we didn’t stay there long, but headed off into the ploughed fields for “Last Chance Saloon” on seeing Sandgrouse.  We stopped at a suitable site and three Great Bustards took off and flew across the fields, and then two Black-bellied Sandgrouse followed them giving very good views as they passed in front of us. This was a great way to finish the trip as a good view of this enigmatic family was high on everyone's wish list.  We drove on to Alicante, where Keith, Val & I said sad goodbyes to the rest who were stopping a night there before flying the next afternoon.

"The trip was a huge success – great company, fabulous scenery, and wonderful birds.  I had personally had four lifers – Spanish Imperial and Golden Eagles, Bald Ibis, and Black-bellied Sandgrouse.  Jules worked really hard to make sure we all had a good time, and the hard work paid off spectacularly.  I made the group list 156 species, which is an amazing tally."  Anthea Skiffington